As the cradle of one of the noblest breeds of horse, which has turned horse-riding into a veritable art form over the centuries, Andalusia had to have its own Academy of Equestrian Art. And so, since 1972, horses have been “dancing” in Jerez’s superb riding arena.
Wasn’t it in Spain that the great courts of Europe sourced horses to create or improve their own breeds, which served as mounts for kings and emperors and their armies? Spain was also the birthplace of combat riding, the techniques, and movements of which inspired the greatest riders of all time in their quest for rigorous and effective aesthetic perfection in the gaits and movements of their mounts. The morphology of Iberian horses, their natural gaits and elegance, predestined them for parade and show, but even more so for academic equitation, an art in the truest sense of the word. Equestrian schools and academies have sprung up all over the world, but very few – as in Jerez – can point to an equestrian tradition that has its roots in everyday life and not just in the transmission and application of the rules of the art.
High school comes out of the bullring
The Domecq family’s reputation has long since spread beyond the borders of Andalusia and Spain. The vineyards, horses and bulls that bear their seal are among the most renowned. Over the generations, they have also left their mark on the world of rejoneo and academic riding. It’s hardly surprising, then, that they have put their passion and talent at the service of the equestrian art, with the added aim of preserving and promoting traditional Andalusian horsemanship.
Don Alvaro Domecq, in receiving the honorable Caballo de Oro award, paid tribute to King Juan Carlos. “I wanted to thank the King. And the best way to do that was to make my horses dance.” Thus, was born the idea of a school of equestrian art. At his Los Alburejos farm on the outskirts of Jerez de la Frontera, Don Alvaro Domecq decided to set up his own riding academy. He rigorously selected his cavalry from among the best horses on his farm. Taking advice from famous riders, he didn’t hesitate to send his squires to work on the construction of the palace, its stables, riding arena and carriage houses. Inaugurated by Queen Isabella II’s husband in 1864, the estate was granted the privilege of placing chains – padlocks in Spanish – in front of the entrance gates to the gardens, a grant which gave rise to the name “Recreo de las Cadenas”.
In 1927, the Duke of Abrantes acquired the estate at auction. The Ministry of Information and Tourism bought it back in 1975, when Don Alvaro Domecq moved to Vienna to further their training. Little by little, the school’s performances – still private – attracted the attention of the public, professionals, and official bodies. The young school reached the threshold of fame. With the help of his son Alvarito, Don Alvaro led his “conservatory” of equestrian art to the ranks of the great European academies.
From Los Alburejos to Recreo de las Cadenas: a palace for a school
In 1860, a French-born Spaniard by the name of Julian Penmartin Laborde built the superb baroque palace of the Recreo de las Cadenas, which today houses the Andalusian school. Based on a design by Charles Garnier, architect of the Paris Opera, the Andalusian School was established here, and subsequently taken over by the Ministry of Culture. Under the direction of architect Picardo, new buildings were constructed in the purest Andalusian style. Elegant and sober, the white and yellow walls let in light through large bull’s-eyes, while countless superb azulejos adorn their interiors. They contain a superb 1,600-seat riding arena and stables for 60 horses, built in a star shape around the saddlery.
The Province of Cadiz confirmed the acquisition of the school in 1983, and Don Alvaro Jr. was appointed technical director. Since then, the school has been performing in Jerez and touring abroad: France, Portugal, Latin America, England, Belgium, Holland… As an ambassador for its country, the school is also involved in promoting Andalusia as a tourist destination, but without ever neglecting its primary vocation: to ensure the continuity of the Andalusian tradition in its academic and vaquera expression, to train new riders in the high school and to contribute to the selection of horses suitable for academic riding.
Despite the many economic turbulences that have marked the Andalusian school’s history, the Domecqs’ efforts and perseverance have paid off handsomely: on June 12, 1987, the King of Spain accepted the honorary presidency of the school, conferring on it the title of “Royal”.
The title of the Royal Andalusian School of Equestrian Art’s show speaks volumes about the content of its performance, for it is truly a ballet performed by horses and riders, in a staging that recalls at every moment the origins of equestrian art and academic horsemanship. To complete the picture, the squires are dressed in 18th-century Andalusian costume: leather gaiters over white stockings, vest, ruffled shirt, blue bolero with gold trim, black conical hat and polka-dot scarf that falls to the nape. The horses are soberly harnessed in a royal saddle for the classical reprises and wear traditional Andalusian harness for the doma vaquera demonstrations. The latter discipline is complemented by the folklore of beautiful Andalusian women riding on the rump of beautifully trimmed horses, but always with academic gaits! The school also has a carriage driving section, following the acquisition in the early 80s of a collection of 19 carriages, some dating back to the 18th century. The sheds now look after more than fifty carriages and house a harness collection said to be the most complete in Spain. You only must attend a feria – in Jerez or elsewhere in Andalusia – to discover and understand the passion and infatuation of Andalusians for beautiful crews and the art of riding.
Tradition, training, and the quest for perfection
The same care that has gone into selecting horses over the years has been applied to the equestrians’ constant quest for perfection. From the original cavalry, exclusively from the Domecq stud farm, the school now boasts a stable which, while still exclusively made up of Purebred Spanish and Lusitano horses, comes from a variety of stud farms, including those of the Jefatura de Cria Caballar. Each year, this state institution provides the school with a selection of foals, which the school then takes on to train and eventually acquire, if the subjects have all the aptitudes and characteristics required for the work they will be asked to do at the school.
Behind the curtain of the Recreo de las Cadenas show, an entire organization has been put in place to serve equitation and the horse. The school has its own veterinary clinic (which also treats horses from outside the school), a training center for farriers, saddlers and saddlery, and a driving school. Students are recruited based on their general culture and equestrian skills: trainees stay for two years, aspirants for four years and graduates for six years.
The Real Escuela Andaluza del Arte Ecuestre’s motto could be taken from the royal sestet in honor of the dancing horses of Andalusia, composed for the school by the great Spanish poet Rafael Alberti: ram aes cnevaux canujanus.
And nothing more, horses that in “Danserez pour mes seules pensées”
